Chef Ryu Isobe’s Kazan is a revelation; it’s hard enough finding an intimate restaurant with a neighborhood vibe on La Cienega’s famed Restaurant Row, but to also score a soba eatery where virtually everything on the menu tastes this good, is nothing short of a culinary jackpot.
But how intimate is too intimate nowadays? Most of us have been staying safe at home, but are slowly venturing out, provided we aren’t thrust into a packed room. We were relieved to find that Kazan, with its spacious dining room, countertop seating, and patio, can accommodate guests comfortably while maintaining ample social distancing guidelines.
At first, you may balk at their prices for soba noodles, but the reservation is easily overrode when considering that they are made in-house on a stunning stainless steel noodle maker (on full display at the entrance), and that dishes are prepared with prime ingredients and choice accompaniments. Take, for instance, the #6 where thick, meaty noodles come in a creamy broth redolent of truffles with a tender, fall-of-the-bone chicken leg, or #7, the “Lamb in Lava” signature dish, which combines three different types of noodles in a spicy broth with sizable New Zealand lamb chops. None of the eight soba choices on the menu, including a vegan one, is anything less than extraordinary in taste, creativity, and constituents.
Do yourself a huge favor and indulge in some of the regular and “upscale starters” as well. The Sake Crispy Wings, soaked overnight with Japanese seven spices, lemon, and soy sauce are meaty, tangy, and packed with umami flavor, and the Sake Steamed Manila Clams with fresh ginger, dry Japanese shili, sake, green onion, black pepper, and garlic is another winner that we wish came with some grilled bread to soak up that exquisite broth.
— GD
Kazan Beverly Hills 111 N. La Cienega, Beverly Hills CA 90211 Tel (424) 512-9101
indulge 