The party at Theía never ends. An Instagrammer’s wet dream, this one-stop shop has it all — complex cocktails that are stunning to post as well as imbibe, modern Greek and Mediterranean-inspired menu that has something tasty for everyone, and a scene so festive and convivial that you’d be be foolish to seek post-dinner revelry anywhere else.

Proprietor, Max Simon, who once owned a club in Paris, apparently drew inspiration for his restaurant from the European island party scene, especially Mykonos (though we felt a more Brazilian vibe). He views dining “as performance,” promising: “Guests will be entertained through smoking dishes, color-changing beverages, DJ curated music sets, and more.” He doesn’t disappoint. Every ten minutes or so, a team of servers stride past with sparkling wands and festive cheers as guests throw down shots and participate in the merrymaking. The music is pulsating and eclectic, signaling from the moment you arrive that your goal is not merely to eat, but to celebrate and linger. Simon’s passion is contagious as he spins through the room like a dervish, ensuring his guests are comfortable and ready to have a memorable time.

The restaurant, designed by Joshua Wymyczak and Tracy Hutson Design thrives in the former Jaffa space and also offers an al-fresco option, which, if you are disinclined to the loud music, would definitely be a wiser option. The menu by Chef Moises Placencia (Tasting Kitchen, and the much-missed Anisette in Santa Monica) has considerable variety. Placencia clearly understands that on top of the food being sumptuous, it will have to deliver strong visual and peformative appeal in keeping with the restaurant’s theme.

Standouts include the meaty seared tuna with pesto arugula; grilled beet salad with crunchy walnuts and feta cheese — a perfect balance of textures, and the sweet and savory; the whole butterflied Loup de Mer (branzino) is tender and flaky, delicately seasoned with lemon, caper and wine sauce; and for the carnivore, there’s a hearty NY Steak with a mushroom and pomegranate sauce on a pillow of mashed potatoes. Stealing the show are the enticing cocktails into which they’ve poured a lot of thought and creativity, like the Sophia Loren made with rose, Italicus, lime, and earl grey; the Love Letters with mezcal, italicus, bitter and some naughty words; and a marvelously attractive g&t.

— G. Dhalla

Theia Los Angeles 8048 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048 www.theia-la.com Telephone: 323-591-0059